Advice on hand stitching please!!

[Strickland]

Although I make a lot of my own stuff Im not that patient when it comes to hand stitching everything, so curse me if I use a machine for the bulk and hand finish the rest! Now, my hand stitching is not the best, though it is tidy. I currently use a white/off white cotton thread for the finishing and it suffices for me anyway!
What I would like to beg your indulgence for, that is the knowed in this respect, is what to use in the way of thread for a completely hand stitched item. Im assuming linen thread, but what thicknesses, plus of course a good source please!! I also always press all my seams as it gives a better result, so again Im assuming that this is something I should still do, unless of course there is information to the contrary!
The reason for this is a long term project for me of a completely hand stitched item of clothing, and something I can work on while Im doing nothing else in camp. If nothing else apart from my own needs it may serve as a talking point when the MOPs come around!
So, there you have it, any advice will be gratefully received thank you!

Neil

[Colin Middleton]

I hand sew all of my kit now, I find the machine too much hassle. You'll need to guage the weight of your thread to the fabric that you're sewing. You might even consider picking a fiber out of a scrap piece of the fabric to use, which will give you a perfect colour/weight match.

My understanding is that some seams were pressed, but it depends on which seam in which garment. The MTA goes into quite a bit of detail on this. Some examples that I've encountered include:
On linnens, you 'roll' the hem, basically folding over only a few milimeters of fabric, and you can press that into place with your finger to get it to stay while you sew it with a felling stitch. That will press itself.
On the hosen leg seam, you do a stabbed seam, but then fold them flat and sew them down. You could press these, but I didn't feel the need.
Doublet seems need pressing because it's so tight to the body.
Seams in broadcloth, you just overlap the 2 peices and fell them to each-other (I think), so there isn't anything to press.

Good luck with it.

[Strickland]

Thanks Colin, lots for me to think on there!!

Neil

[Handbag]

i often use woollen thread to stitch, i can still get darning wool at my local haberdashery and find, particularity when sewing woollen items it really pulls in nice and tight, i tend to wax the thread slightly before sewing to give a little strength as it is passed through the material,
but remember to use shorter amounts when sewing. threading up with a huge length of thread is false economy as it will weaken as you sew and probably break before you finish your seam or soon afterwards meaning you will have to re sew.

linen is also good to use but i avoid pre waxed stuff you tend to get in a haberdashery as i find it doesnt hold as tight as i would like.

[Colin Middleton]

I tend to use wool when sewing woollen items too, it 'fits in better'. I might try that tip about waxing it, thanks.

[IDEEDEE]

Useful tips for those long winter evenings..... Cheers guys..