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Linen or wool.

Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 4:50 pm
by Ian
Hi could anyone help with a query? Were late 14th century doublets, hosen and cotehardie always made from wool or would linen also be an acceptable material?

Also were doublets always worn under a cotehardie? Because body linens and two layers on top seems mighty warm if you want to wear a cotehardie!

Re: Linen or wool.

Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 11:13 pm
by guthrie
Usually wool yes, if you are talking the UK. Just find thin wool, that's the important point that lots of people overlook. Plus when you are actually active it is okay to take off your outer layer, the cotehardie etc is for show or keeping warm when cold.

Re: Linen or wool.

Posted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 11:43 am
by Lena01
Made from the fibers of the flax plant, linen has a visible weave and great natural texture. It also wrinkles very easily, which is part of its effortless charm. However, if you'll be wearing this suit to work, you may want to try a linen blend that also contains cotton or wool.

Re: Linen or wool.

Posted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 11:04 am
by Alice the Huswyf
Guthrie is right - weight and weave means that you can have heavy, warm wool cloth (thick fulled meltons) and fine, cool wool cloth (nun's veiling).

You might find it interesting and certainly useful to look at the Sumptuary laws - which often governed what fabric could be or could not be used, by who and when (changed according to the needs of the exchequer) and the fabric types of the period. Fustian, for instance is a period mixed fibre fabric and while Cotton was noted in England 1425 - but rarely, and only in very high status wardrobes (even as stuffing).

Linen on the other hand was home grown and is a vastly useful fabric. For reasons of pleasure, authenticity and practicality I would always go with correct, pure (as possible) and status-appropriate fabrics.

- They are correct (so improve what you are offering).

- They are comfier to wear and practical (wool breathes and although it shrinks when dried unstretched , equally it will stretch when worn in mizzle and dried on the body. If it still carries lanolin, it is shower resistant as long as you don't brush it dry, breaking the surface tension. Linens are cool so ideal for layering, wick moisture away from the body and dry quickly )

- They are tend to be safer under casual spark accidental firetrays ''brush' incidents (wool smoulders before it burns, whereas a mixed fibre will burn and melt according to % , low wool content version doing a napalm thing, cotton will burn like a dream, whereas linen absorbs water and atmospheric moisture to will scorch and char first rather than scorch and ignite)

- They retain better resale value as garments made of the right fabrics- and the correct fabric for that garment's status will appease many more authenticity standards. (Never underestimate the appeal of a good condition pre-worn garment as a way of funding new kit, or as a way of acquiring decent reproduction clothing on a budget that avoids the all spanky-new look).