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Pattern help!

Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 11:04 pm
by Annis
Hi,

Having mental problems here. I've got a pattern from my medieval kirtle, BUT I want to use the same pattern for an overgown. However I need to increase it around the bust, waist and hips so it would fit over the kirtle, but I don't know where on the pattern to increase it :( Help!

Thanks
Annis

Re: Pattern help!

Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 9:25 am
by chrisanson
I need to increase it around the bust
8-) :wink:

Re: Pattern help!

Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 9:37 am
by Alice the Huswyf
Proper method:

Increase the width by dividing the overall amount of width you require to add in by the number of panels in the dress. Split the pattern piece vertically down the centre of each piece and add in 1 width of the amount/panel you have worked out. Add this equally down the entire panel piece. This will increase the pattern piece equally at bust, waist and hip without distortion. Cut out as normal. Works best for more than one size gained. Seems fiddly but is the most accurate and safest for beginners.

So for a four panel kirtle: 1/4 added at centre of shoulder on each front and back bodice pieces.
For a six panel add 1/6 down the centre of each of side panel and add 1/12 centre of shoulder on each front and back bodice pieces

Quick Method:

To create wearing ease for one layer over another (2 - 3"), or when simply raising one size (2") divide the amount added width by the number of panels, divide again by two (ie per seam edge) and cut out adding the extra smidgeon you have worked out to each side seam. NB your seam must be evenly spaced and it's placement WILL effect this method of resizing, so take it into account. Best suited to dressmakers with some expertise or confidence becuase care must be used and proportions maintained throughout the cut; the smallest amount under or over will make a big cumulative difference to the sizing.

DO THE MATHS WITH CARE.

Cheats Method - for small enlargements and on a four panel kirtle ONLY .

Add 1/4 of the calculated width to both the centre front and back seams only. Tweak the fit in the centre back seam at the small of the back if required. You will need to cut the neck line of the the garment correspondingly narrower to allow it to cover the neck line of the under garment. I would cut it very small and then trim to suit ( remember to allow turnings) by wearing it under the garment you will be wearing it over. Best done by old hands.


Buy a dressmaking manual - there are many good ones out there and all this information is readily to hand - with diagrams

Re: Pattern help!

Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 12:45 pm
by hamster
hi
you can buy a pattern adjuster from most haberdasheries i then transfere pattern on to poster paper so get the extra pattern that way or i just cheat and add a thumb with :thumbup:
i know its not the the official way to do it but it dose work :)

Re: Pattern help!

Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 12:51 pm
by Tuppence
the first method that alice said.

Re: Pattern help!

Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 4:44 pm
by Annis
Thanks for the help :D It IS very tempting to do the quick method seeing as when all the calculations are made, a silly tiny bit it being added onto each pattern, but knowing me it will go horribly wrong! So I'll do the proper method.

I've a 6 panel kirtle - 1 back piece, a front and 2 side pieces either side. So, just to clarify, where would I cut? Red line or green line?

Image

Image


Thanks.

Re: Pattern help!

Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 5:35 pm
by Alice the Huswyf
Side panel, red line but the line must be straight and perpendicular, so you may need to nudge it to one side to allow for side curves.

Front and back panels use the green line, but it be straight and perpendicular.

Hamster's method would be method 3 and best not used by beginners short on time and cash. Personally I buy lots of very cheap christmas wrapping paper in the sales and use that for transferring or making patterns from toiles.

Re: Pattern help!

Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 5:40 pm
by Annis
Thanks Alice. I hope to crack on with it soon then :)

I need the gown for 29th Dec, but have 6 assignments to contend with before then :worried:

Re: Pattern help!

Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 5:47 pm
by Alice the Huswyf
it is a quicker method than you would think. You just need a metre rule (hard to get, if you ever see one, grab it - I use a builder's metre steel rule, but again, not easy to find) or a long straight piece of wood.

Re: Pattern help!

Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 6:02 pm
by Annis
Yeah, we have a couple at home. But I have spotted my housemates steel one so I may have to borrow it...again!

Re: Pattern help!

Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 10:48 pm
by Annis
Right. Assignment put aside. Patterns adjusted as recommended and pieces cut out. And only JUST enough fabric for full length sleeves.

The result?...

It fits PERFECTLY!! A little baggy at the back, but that can be adjusted when the eyelets are put in at either side :D


Thanks for all the help!

Re: Pattern help!

Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 12:43 pm
by Alice the Huswyf
If it is baggy at the back, nip in the two back seams at the waist. It is a small quick alteration and produces a better effect than dragging your lacing tighter which will cause rucking in the lacing run in wear.

Re: Pattern help!

Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 6:51 pm
by lidimy
Jenny, you going to lace it both sides then? (:

Re: Pattern help!

Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 11:14 am
by Annis
Alice the Huswyf wrote:If it is baggy at the back, nip in the two back seams at the waist. It is a small quick alteration and produces a better effect than dragging your lacing tighter which will cause rucking in the lacing run in wear.
Will do :)
Lidi wrote:Jenny, you going to lace it both sides then?
Yus. I find it looks more even.

Re: Pattern help!

Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 11:55 am
by Alice the Huswyf
I wouldn't shout about that on a public forum if I were you! :twisted:

(opening both side seams for lacing as well as front lacing run is a C15th maternity alteration)