My understanding was expensive fabrics. You only need a little, so that's a point where you can show off a little. I suspect that leather could also have been used if there was a need to make them waterproof, but you'd need to use dearskin or similar for the flexibility.
I've managed to have a look at a couple of books over Christmas. The Beauchap Pageant (late 15th Century English, possibly) shows one example of the kidney pouch (the form with 2 'flaps folded over the belt), but all other examples that I could see where of the purse-frame style, some of them very large. There is one picture where the purse hangs from his waist to below his bum!
I've also looked at the Devonshire Hunting Tapestries (early 15th Flemish, perhaps). This shows very few purses, mainly kidney pouch style. All the frame purses appear to be used for hawking.
I've also skimmed a few other pictures. Interestingly enough all the French pictures (throught the 15th C) show people wearing kidney pouches, often with the purse weights being visible.
All the best.
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