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What Length a Livery Coat

Posted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 8:44 am
by Colin Middleton
Our group is looking at getting some new livery coats made up and this has got a few people thinking. My understanding is that livery coats were normally realised from a 2 yard issue of cloth, which will take them all to about hip length. That the quality of cloth denotes the position in the household, rather than the length. I'm wondering if this was always right.

I'm assuming that the houslehold soldier is simply a household servant who's been given arms. This seems to tie up with a lot of the stuff I've been reading lately. Obviously, the stable boy will want a short coat to help keep it clean, but what about the steward or other functionaries, would they not expect a longer gown? Would indentured men (i.e. those knights who promised to "ride and follow" the lord) get a livery issue and if so, would it be greater than 2 yards? What about knights working in positions of the household?

If we're issuing cloth to servants, rather than to soldiers, would a livery issue be made to any women servants (there normally were women servants, and the deal usually included clothing)? Would these have the colours and badge?

Does anyone know where I might find answers to these questions?

Many thanks

Posted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:52 am
by kate/bob
2 yards isn't very much fabric to make a livery coat from. Dave Rushworth's pattern takes 3 and gives a long sleeved coat with sleeves full enough to go over a jack and enough width across the back to all but the largest jacks. It comes just below bum length.

I haven't looked into the subject, I've assumed that Dave did the research when he made the pattern :lol: [/img]

Posted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 10:16 am
by Tuppence
depends a/ what you're wearing 'em over and b/ what style you're after.

since a 'livery coat' is just a coat in livery colours, they's 'ave had 'em in any number of styles.

is your two yards assuming broadcloth or normal medieval wool width.

if the former it should be just enough to make a simple sleeved coat about hip length, with no pleating etc, and for a relatively small person.

if the latter, it would indicate sleeveless with the same other restrictions.

I generally allow three metres (or about three & a quarter yards). but have been known to use as little as a metre, and as much as five.

Posted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 12:24 pm
by Colin Middleton
I beleive that it is broadcloth.