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That is ace Needed something to make me laugh.

I've seen wooden scabards snap before but never before heard of any injury's resulting, never had any problems myself, but my darkage one is probably tougher than most spear shafts . Might have to make two scabards for my new messer, wooden core for storage and leather for battle field usage.

Thought I had better add My owne question on to this. I have a Tim Noyes Messer Falchion due soon and will need to make a scabbard.
Q1. is a wooden core authenty for 15th Century? or does it need to be all leather?
Q2. Has a consensus been reached on the curved vs wide scabbard debate?

Wood and leather scabards don't always break I have one I made for Vike that is (touch wood) still doing fine after about 3 years. As for falchion scabards I would think curved with a semi open back, but thats just conjecture

Just wanting a verdict on his dark age swords. I know what the 15th century ones are like (very good) but a member of one of my groups is asking about his dark age blades and no one I know has one.

Thanks

yay we didn't scare you away.

From training I preffer a wooden grip to a leather wraped one put that is personal choice so workmonkey is right it is all conjecture. We shall just have to hope for some find's to settle this issue. Anyone know of any unfound seax's with intact grips

WorkMonkey3 wrote:Are you trying to say im overly aggressive and unhelpful in my handling of people seeking help? No but others might. Everything I have read (still not a huge amount) sujests wooden handles (possibly with leather over that, but thats only conjecture) Battersea seax is 10th century ...

The original poster hasn't replyed since praehapse we scared them away. Come back so we can bombarded you questions like exactly what part of the period do you do? what group are you part of? (it does affect weapon styles due to differnt AO's) and how do you envisiage using the resulting weapon?

didn't see the proper langseax further down. it's only correct for early saxon though, later saxon doesn't have a pomel also the grip should be wood not wrapped leather.
Norse style is completely different to anything on there.

I know someone with a GDFB scram, its ok though riveted handle is wrong as far as I know. however it is not a langseax. Blade is only 1footish

never did learn how to spell.

Having started doing 15th century properly now I need a pair of plate gauntlets. I'm planning to get milanese style gauntlets as I think they give better protection. I need recomendations for a basic pair. I know GDFB do a fairly cheap set but have no idea on fit or quality or who else might be reco...

any groups near the IOW. I've been trying to encorage some of my reenactment training group to try some of the dagger defences that are illistrated in the old manuels but there are few takers and I need someone to learn from.

Langsaex is I think correct. If you want one then you'll need to comission one. Binns does them as do other armours who take comissions. You will need to decide on size, style (norse or saxon), hilt material, and if you opt for a norse style then what style pommel to choose. The resulting weapons ca...

on the sword, I would not recomend any hanwei blades, I've seen one break at the base of the blade before, never seen one shatter but have heard horror stories. save up and get an armourclass, or Tim Noyes blade, they look nicer, feel nicer, last better.

for next year I'll be using with a placard but I also intend to use for some HEMA work which some of my freinds are staring to do, so I want a fairly stiff one.

??

Bloke.

I'm in the market for a custom padded jack for mid to late 15th century. the main problem with the off the peg ones I see at shows and on line is if they are big enough in the shoulder they are always to big in the body (uncomfortable under armour) often to short and baggy in the sleeve. can anyone ...

There is a reference in one of the scandanavian sagas to reindeer hides as armour but this is as far as I know an isolted reference. though there hasn't been findes the idea of a leather liner under maile like later arming jackets isn't without merit from a commonsensical viewpoint. I do wear a leat...

Hardrada is still remebered for his earlier exploits aswell as his death. Edward was later decalred a saint, majour influense on later English royals as a result. Wiliam laid the foundasions(sp) for what became under Henry II the largest state in western europe (even if it was lots of counties and d...

Thanks. When I made my lammelar I drilled the holes and they were horribly rough and kept cutting the lacing so a punch sounds like a good idea.

I will probably be waring it in conjunction with a placard (best £40 ever spent it was second hand originaly from dress to kill) for some extra protection. Some of the plates will brobably be from a recycled set of lammelar I made but abbanded due to repeated lacing falures. I susspect for the quant...

Normaly I don't get "stupid" questions just disbeleif that I am willing to wear 12Kg of maile plus other kit for more than 2 minuets. Or that I'm not doing this for money but becuase it is fun. Though it is great watching peoples faces when they realise that the fur and leather being used is real an...

I'm going to make a WOTR era Brig this winter. Can anyone give me advice on patterns and methods etc.

good to see you on here. and yep asking on your behalve cos I couldn't find anything other than what was previusly mentioned.

Thanks. Does sujest that there are very few suppliers of non custom 17th century blunts

I'm looking for manufactures of 17th century swords that are up to regular (week ly training). The only ones I have found are Armourcalss (great), and Paul chen (not great). Are there any other suppliers to look at.