METROPOLITAN
CULTURE
SERIES.
BEAUTY:
ITS
ATTAINMENT AND PRESERVATION
FIRST EDITION.
NEW YORK:
THE BUTTERICK PUBLISHING COMPANY, [LIMITED].
1890
CHAPTER III.
ESSENTIALS: ELEGANT MANNERS, GRACEFUL BEARING, AND
A PLEASING VOICE.
p25
IN cultivating the mind, the development of a pleasing -deportment must not be neglected, for grace and self-possession both in action and repose are indispensable to the tout ensemble of beauty. Men and women may possess rare attractions in every other respect, and yet by nervous or awkward movements cast upon themselves a doubt as to their being entitled to social intercourse with these "to the manner born." Even if this doubt does ~ arise, the self-possessed with whom they come in contact distressed by their erratic movements, and their society, -therefore, becomes an infliction rather than a pleasure. Defects in deportment usually result, as do those of disposition, from a lack of proper early training, or from little neglects in later life which have grown into habits. Either cause can be corrected under wise guidance and by a determination to conquer the many lapses which a sensitive or moderately keen self-observer becomes conscious of, when comparing her own deportment with that of the refined circle into which she has been fortunate enough to gain an entrance.
Diffidence or bashfulness often proves the most prolific soil for perpetual awkwardness, the unfortunate perpetrators of which deserve genuine sympathy. The latter should be proved by an earnest effort on the part of those
26 BEAUTY
who extend it to put at their ease this very numerous class of social sufferers. As serious illness must be treated by nauseous doses, so must bashfulness be overcome by what will be heroic measures on the part of the sufferer in going as often as possible into the company of affable people and taking an active interest in the conversation or amusements of the hour. In this way self-consciousness will be lost, limbs will begin to move gracefully, hands will forget to fidget, the ever recurring flush will remain in abeyance, sitting and standing positions will become unconstrained, and iji fact, the shackles of a mortifying timidity will gradually disappear, until bashfulness and diffidence will remain only as amusing memories of a period of unnecessary mental distress.
It is not certain that self-consciousness is not one of the worst types of self-conceit; for to imagine that every one is thinking of what you do and say, and how you look and appear, even if you fancy it is done in an adversely critical way, can scarcely be called other than conceit. A moment’s reflection should assure a sensible reasoner that every one has himself or herself to think of in addition to all else that goes to make up a busy life, and that in all probability the poor victim who imagines himself the center of derisive observation and comment receives nothing more from any one than a passing thought, and that a kindly one. This view, generally conceded to be correct, should soothe the bashful one into a state of mental serenity; and this, in its turn, will happily influence awkward movements and little by little develop that refined confidence of manner which is the real foundation of grace. A graceful walk is natural to many, especially those
THE PERFECT WALK. 27
who are not self-conscious; others acquire it by long and patient practice. Theories with regard to its accomplishment are numerous and varying. Naturally they are also somewhat contradictory, since the movements of the graceful women of all countries differ as widely as do their types of beauty; and every author and artist has his favorite type, which he pronounces the only perfect one. A composite type results in the recommendation of a gliding walk, with most of the action dependent upon the thighs, the feet swinging from the relaxed knees into natural and graceful positions. Delsarte, the popular promoter of a System of Expression, says: "There are almost as many walks as there are individuals. It is temperamental, as much an indicator of the habits, character and emotions as the voice." He also says: "The perfect walk must be straight, each step a foot apart (your own foot, not the ordinary foot measure). Bobbing up and down, pitching, rolling, strutting must be avoided as gymnastic crimes. The great work of the movement falls to the lot of the thigh, the vital division of the leg. This is the strongest portion of the frame." The foot should be lifted but slightly, and although in its natural state it "is fashioned to grasp the ground," yet when clothed in the coverings invented by men, the heel must perforce first touch the earth; but let it be as lightly as possible, since heavily striking the heel in walking is not only detrimental to health from the succession of shocks given the system and brain, but is considered a noisy vulgarity and is, as well, productive of extreme ungracefulness. A flexibility at the waist-line is also one of the necessities of a graceful carriage, and these muscles should be regularly exercised by forward, backward and
28 BEAUTY
rotatory bendings, in order to make them subject to the will of the walker and to render the swaying movements of the body harmonious with the action of the lower limbs. Perfect poise, artists say, is found only among those of the lower classes who bear the burdens of their daily avocations upon their heads. Those who teach grace if bearing make their pupils apply the same principle, and give them a daily exercise in walking erect with some easily balanced article upon their heads. Delsarte in his teachings says: "Practice-the walk with a book on your head, walking straight on a chalked tape, the marks two feet apart (your own feet). Put this tape in front of the looking glass, and step on the marks as you see them reflected."
The presence of greatness overawes many people who unconsciously fall into cringing attitudes when directly addressed by or speaking to the person considered a superior. Do not so insult your own self-respect nor lessen that of others for you; for such an attitude strikes all beholders most unpleasantly and enables them to immediately mark with a red letter a most deplorable characteristic—that of servility. Deference to a superior may be gracefully expressed by a respectful inclination of the head and body, but no one would call graceful or noble in bearing, the man or woman who sidles up to an important personage and incorporates into his or her own listening attitude the squirming "‘umbleness" of the immortal Uriah Heep.
Emerson struck for the whole world the key-note to gracefulness, when he said "Give me a thought and my hands and legs and voice and face will all go right. And we are awkward for want of thought." Direct your
GRACE IN ACTION AND REPOSE. 29
thoughts from yourself and dwell upon the worthy ones of others. You will then forget awkward limbs, which will soon prove, as the same writer says, that "Nature is the best posture maker." Do not follow fashionable "fads" in locomotion, for none of them ever has been or ever will be an exponent of grace. Let lofty thoughts inspire the pose, and Nature will take care of the action.
A graceful salutation carries with it a most pleasing impression. A bow, under some circumstances, is as expressive as words, and can convey a compliment which the tongue may not utter. Its gradations indicate respect,
admiration, friendship or love for, slight acquaintance with and civility towards, or a desire to keep at a distance, its recipient. A careless nod or a jerky inclination is provocative of criticism, both from a possible lack of respect that may not be intended but is certainly conveyed, and also from an artistic point of view. Let the inclination of the head and body and their return to a normal position be gradual, and allow circumstances to govern the profundity of the inclination. The result will be a bow gracefully accomplished and typical of good breeding.
Grace in repose is more difficult of attainment than grace in action. In the latter there are necessarily varying attitudes. A person who constantly changes her position while sitting, loses all that dignity of repose which is so closely allied with grace. She makes a hopeless striving after the latter, and renders uncomfortable all observers. A rigid, upright position, as if one were momentarily expecting to encounter a calamity, is one of the frequent sitting postures in which every possible tendency to grace is totally obliterated. It is strained,
30 BEAUTY
uncomfortable, unnatural and should be avoided. Its opposite, however, when the edge of a chair-seat is made the balancing point for extended limbs and reclining shoulders, is not only indicative of bad breeding, but is reprehensible beyond question, no matter how comfortable the sitter, who is usually a man, may be. Occupy the whole seat of an ordinary chair and lean upon its back so far as you may without detracting from an easy, refined and graceful position. It must be admitted that modern furniture is not universally comfortable, and curves that would be conducive to ease are often sacrificed for lines pleasing to the eye; but as yet, every article has at least one or two redeeming features of which every sitter may take advantage in maintaining a graceful pose.
Do not fidget with your hands or any article you may be holding. Think of what you are listening to or saying, and forget the restless members, and they will seek the desirable repose without any mental or other assistance.
As to the disposal of the feet and limbs, the privileges accorded to ladies and gentlemen differ to a material extent, and while a gentleman may sit in a graceful attitude with crossed limbs, the ethics of refined society forbid that a lady should assume this pose. There are, however, infringements upon this rule as well as infractions of it, and though the effect may be not ungraceful, the attitude is one which, for obvious reasons, should be avoided.
A voice, sweet, resonant, expressive, is one of the greatest charms that may fall to the lot of or be acquired by any one. A voice which has not been disciplined or
THE MUSIC OF SPEECH 31
cultivated is like an untutored savage on whose tranquillity no reliance can be placed. It follows every mood and often belies the intensity of the latter, becoming harsh and loud when its possessor is only slightly irritated, or strident and boisterous when she is only ordinarily merry. When she has learned to subdue its tendencies in this direction, then let her begin the development of its attractive qualities. If she is not so situated as to be able to benefit from scientific cultivation, she may, aided by a few hints, train her voice to a pleasing modulation without professional assistance.
Speech is as musical as song, and its compass is normally the same. The dominant note is always near the middle of the compass and is the one on which the person can "speak and sing with the best effect, with the greatest ease and for the greatest length of time." The first step, therefore, is to aim at control over the dominant note. But, this must not be developed to an unpleasing resonance. Delsarte says: "There are two kinds of loud voices: the vocally loud, which is the vulgar voice, and the dynamically loud, which is the powerful voice. A voice, however powerful it may be, should be inferior to the power which animates it." He also says: "Accent is the modulation of the soul"; and, "If you would move others, put your heart in the place of your larynx; let your voice become a mysterious hand to caress the hearer." In these quotations may be found the whole theory which, if followed, will render a voice pleasing long after youth has passed and the years are crowding along with all their ravaging inroads.
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