|At the end of the
Summer of 1999, I bought myself my trusty sewing machine (over the past
7 years ALL my costumes have been entirely hand-sewn!).
I also cut out the
initial paper patterns, which were based on the underkirtle by Ninya Mikhaila.
I then started to
cut out my gown! (Frightening point, especially regarding the expensive
Waist pleats are of the
underkirtle by Ninya
|Once the paper patterns
were prepared, I used an interlining material to make my toiles.
The back of the toile fitted me very well, but the side panels had to be
reduced drastically to fit correctly.
The front of the
bodice also had to be altered. Initially, I had altered the original
pattern so that the neckline would be an inch higher than the underkirtle
neckline. This was not correct and I had to add two more curved pattern
pieces to raise the neckline and also to create a neat curve.
The toile was then
used to remake the paper pattern pieces and then to be an interlining for
the main gown.
||The image on the
Left is the initial Front Toile. This is before I had to raise the
height of the neckline. For an Elizabethan gown, I would only have
raised the neckline by 2 inches. For the 1540s Wedding gown, I wanted
the neckline to be much higher - I think I raised it by 4-5 inches.
I think raising the height of the neckline improved the fit of the bodice.
The image to the
right, is how the bodice looked from the side. I did need to
pull in the side panels 3 inches on both sides!
Once the toile was perfected in
fit and in shape, I had the task of cutting out the new paper patterns
from the silk damask. This worried me greatly as the damask was expensive
and I was terrified of making a big mistake!
I cut out the bodice ensuring that the "Lattice" design was centred
correctly down the Centre Front and the two pieces which formed the back
and its lacing matched up perfectly. The side panels I didn't mind
too much whether the patterns matched up as they tended to be cut nearly
on the bias of the silk.
Ninya Mikhaila, Historical Costumier very kindly sent me a pattern for
the over sleeve cuffs of the typical 1540s period. This was
a huge help to me - drafting these patterns is not an easy task! I drew
up my own undersleeve pattern which you can see below with the other bodice
patterns. This patterns I generated in MS Paint.
Hanging Sleeve with Undersleeve and 'Puffs'
1540s - Bodice and Boning Pattern - Back Lacing
| The three
images here, show the basic patterns that I used for my wedding gown.
image shows the Hanging cuff/sleeve as it should look when completed.
shows the pattern of the bodice with the boning channels.
And the third
image shows half the undersleeve pattern. This is cut on a fold -
the straight line above 'wrist'.
to Go to The 'Half Way There' Page.
available as yet.